Been working for a few days, here I am hanging in front of the TV screens at Celtic Football Stadium. Was a good laugh though as I met up With Rosco Peeko. Another day then London for two days then hopefully the Anvil for a few days before I head away for two weeks working again.
Visited the Anvil today and there was actually a cue on Dave Redpaths classic route Spitfire.
Dave Macleod and Malcolm Smith were on the steep project wall and I went on Spitfire and tryed to work the route a bit more as I could never do the last move. Today was different though. So now Im well hyped to get it sent. The bad thing about the route if its at your limit is the paifull nature of the crimps, specially when working the crux section which involve a dynamic cross through to a rough edge then a shoulder wrenching lock to a heinous chunk of Quartz. Once the moves are worked I quess its redpoints and a race against the skin on each visit.
There are lots of various sequences being unlocked on the crux, the dynamic way, the strong way and now the Niall who had a good redpoint which had him in the zone giving his best war crys on everymove through the crux section leading to him falling off on the last move. I had images of squirrels and rabits terrified and quivering at his manly roar.
Tom Cat was there but he dissapeared on a boulder hunt as it was a rest day for him. He later emerged empty handed.
All in all a good day and well worth the walk in.
Elysium
Well got to Daves to discover that the forecast was very bad for us to climb. I was gutted but Dave sugested we have a winter climbing start in the morning so I could at least get one or two shots at the project.
5.3O am we are up then out the door by 6am. Dave drove to Tighnabruaich and we were at the crag for after 7. I had a warm up and the wind was howling the air cool and dark clouds were looming in. So I went for the route and at the jugs before the crux evrything felt fine, no pump, relaxed and no stress. Then the next moment i was at the top.
Dave in his usaual manner then inspected some moves and dispatched it soon after. As we packed up the heavens opened and we were on the road back for 9.30am. All in all one of the best yet.
Elysian fields (ilizh'un) [key]or Elysium (ilizh'?um)
[key], in Greek religion and mythology, happy
otherworld for heroes favored by the gods. Identified
with the Fortunate Isles or Isles of the Blest,
Elysium was situated in the distant west, at the edge
of the world. In later tradition and in Vergil,
Elysium is a part of the underworld and a pleasant
abode for the righteous dead.
Tighnabruaich roof
