Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Anvil




Visited the Anvil today and there was actually a cue on Dave Redpaths classic route Spitfire.

Dave Macleod and Malcolm Smith were on the steep project wall and I went on Spitfire and tryed to work the route a bit more as I could never do the last move. Today was different though. So now Im well hyped to get it sent. The bad thing about the route if its at your limit is the paifull nature of the crimps, specially when working the crux section which involve a dynamic cross through to a rough edge then a shoulder wrenching lock to a heinous chunk of Quartz. Once the moves are worked I quess its redpoints and a race against the skin on each visit.

There are lots of various sequences being unlocked on the crux, the dynamic way, the strong way and now the Niall who had a good redpoint which had him in the zone giving his best war crys on everymove through the crux section leading to him falling off on the last move. I had images of squirrels and rabits terrified and quivering at his manly roar.

Tom Cat was there but he dissapeared on a boulder hunt as it was a rest day for him. He later emerged empty handed.
All in all a good day and well worth the walk in.

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