Wednesday, September 20, 2006


I got to Oban early and decided to look at the beach boulder near the terminal and also scope the conglomorate overhanging crag as well. The crag I thought would be a good wee spot for some small but funky sport routes. I think a couple of routes would be worth it,specially if you lived in Oban. Funky pockets and blobs, that would be routes 6A-MID 7's.

Better though is the boulder on the beach, a conglomerate boulder that is eliminate central. The variety of problems you could do are great. Also the clean face is at a steady 15 degrees which gives you a good pump. Dont get me wrong, this is not a boulder that is worth a drive from Edinburgh but it is worth a visit if you are in Oban early and going to Mull or the Islands and you have to wait for a ferry.

The problems are all in pockets of varying sizes and also blobs.The harder ones on lots of edges and even monos.There are obvious lines that follow aretes and lips and also a good highball up the centre of it following a slight ramp, maybe 5c. Landings are perfect shingle as well. The right to left low traverse on everything is a good pump with suprisingly tricky move half way.

All in all better than the oban wall and you dont have to pay and the view is amazing. So forget the rubbish shops when waiting for the ferry, get your boots and sandwich and head to the boulder.

Ill leave directions out so you can look yourself. Its not hard honest.

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